{"id":10462,"date":"2016-10-11T21:57:46","date_gmt":"2016-10-12T04:57:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.hobiebarnes.com\/?p=10462"},"modified":"2018-07-29T18:39:13","modified_gmt":"2018-07-30T01:39:13","slug":"visiting-the-champagne-country-moulin-rouge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hobiebarnes.com\/?p=10462","title":{"rendered":"Visiting the Champagne Country + Moulin Rouge!"},"content":{"rendered":"

Monday, Sept 12, 2016 – Paris, Day 2<\/h2>\n

<– Previously, an action-packed day in Paris seeing Notre Dame, the D’Orsay Museum, and the Eiffel Tower at night<\/a><\/p>\n

An Early Start<\/h3>\n

So we weren’t able to sleep in too much as I had booked us on a champagne day trip in Reims, which is located smack dab in the middle of Champagne Country.\u00a0 But first we had to get to Reims on our own as the tour wasn’t a Paris-based one.\u00a0 Hence we were going to get our first experience with the SNCF trains, but even before that we had to get to Gare de L’est by taking the subway.\u00a0 After we got to the train station, we had enough time to grab a quick croissant at a vendor as we knew there was going to be lots of champagne ahead of us that day and it’s wise to not drink on an empty stomach.\u00a0 \u00a0Larry even did the ordering and used the advice of adding ‘si vous plais’ when doing so, as it drastically helps in getting the French to be nice.\u00a0 The train ride there was very comfortable, as I had booked us in first class, and very smooth and VERY fast. Reims is quite a ways from Paris but via that train, it’s only 45 minutes. I love European trains.<\/p>\n

Getting to Reims<\/h3>\n

\"paris-to-reims\"<\/a>I wanted to use this map to help give you a sense of how far away we were from Paris.\u00a0 By car, it takes nearly 1 3\/4 hours, but our high speed train made quick work of that in 45 minutes.\u00a0 Nice!<\/p>\n

\"Looking <\/a>
Looking out over the Seine during a lovely sunrise <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"002-dscn4697\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"Used <\/a>
Used the sunrise setting to capture the blue sky <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Had <\/a>
Had to head to Gare de L’est for a 45-minute train ride to Reims <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"005-dscn4700\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"We <\/a>
We had a croissant and caffe creme and were ready for our journey east <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"In <\/a>
In our business class seats <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"The <\/a>
The beautiful Reims train station <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"009-dscn4705\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Outside <\/a>
Outside the station and now in search of our tour meeting point <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

Visiting our first champagne facility: G.H. Mumms<\/h3>\n

\"mumms-in-reims\"<\/a>In Reims, we found our meeting point\u00a0 at the tourism office and after waiting in the line there briefly, I looked back to see that our minivan group was waiting and we didn’t need to wait in the line. Our seats were up in the front as we were the last to arrive and it was a crazy wide Mercedes minivan.\u00a0 Our host was a cute French\/Brazilian guy who was not only our driver but also the tour guide for the day.\u00a0 We got a quick drive-through tour of the city of Reims first, before heading to the Mumms factory in the city.\u00a0 \u00a0While waiting outside the facility for our tour to begin, we all got to meet each other.\u00a0 There were 3 couples in addition to us, making a total of 8 people.<\/p>\n

Once inside Mumms, we first watched a movie of their history, but after that, we then started walking throughout the vast complex that exists underground.\u00a0 We learned about the various grapes used, the various bottle sizes, and just quite a bit of\u00a0how champagne is made<\/a>.\u00a0 \u00a0Some of the things I remember, others not, but that link is helpful.\u00a0 Deeper underground, we got quite a cool tour of the workings, including walking around the huge underground city that is filled with endless rows of bottles and bottles.\u00a0 We got to really see in practice the part of the process in which bottles of champagne are kept stored at various inverted angles. \u00a0It’s during these multi-week stretches that the champagne grit works its way to the neck of the bottle, and each phase change includes a rotation of the bottle and an increased angle.\u00a0 We learned that the final part to get out the grit is to freeze the neck and knock the cap off, which then ejects the grit-ice pop out of the bottle.\u00a0 Then they insert a cork finally.\u00a0 Didn’t actually see that process at Mumms, but in the last champagne factory we went to that day, we did!\u00a0 Anyway, I swear the Amazing Race was held here in the Mumms factory once – as it would be a great place to get lost in.<\/p>\n

Wandering the Mumms Underground Champagne Cellars<\/h3>\n
\"At <\/a>
At the Mumm Champagne tour start <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"You <\/a>
You can’t tell, but there’s a giant city of champagne underneath <\/div> <\/div>
\"013-dscn4709\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"After <\/a>
After a brief movie, we headed down <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"015-dscn4711\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"And <\/a>
And learned about how champagne is made, including which grapes <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Pinot <\/a>
Pinot Meunier is one of the three types <\/div> <\/div>
\"018-dscn4714\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"This <\/a>
This particular tour was a combo of two groups <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"020-dscn4716\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"giant <\/a>
giant vats of wine <\/div> <\/div>
\"022-dscn4718\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"023-dscn4719\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"A <\/a>
A sampling of what the various colors of wine look like <\/div> <\/div>
\"025-dscn4721\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"026-dscn4722\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"027-dscn4723\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"028-dscn4724\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"029-dscn4725\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"And <\/a>
And the various sizes – Bouteille is the standard size, and each size bigger is double in quantity. <\/div> <\/div>
\"Notice <\/a>
Notice the names are Biblical names <\/div> <\/div>
\"032-dscn4728\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"God <\/a>
God of wine <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"034-dscn4730\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Even <\/a>
Even further down <\/div> <\/div>
\"This <\/a>
This is where bottles of champagne are left to age and settle for a little <\/div> <\/div>
\"The <\/a>
The bottle was highlighted to show the settled elements that need to be removed <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"And <\/a>
And they will be removed <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Lots <\/a>
Lots of champagne <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"040-dscn4736\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"And <\/a>
And it keeps going and going – LOTS of these hallways of champagne <\/div> <\/div>
\"There <\/a>
There are street names <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Long <\/a>
Long hallways <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"044-dscn4740\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"Illustration <\/a>
Illustration of Mumms champagne from long ago <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"046-dscn4742\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"047-dscn4743\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"I <\/a>
I didn’t take a good pic here, but these are very classic vintages <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"049-dscn4745\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"The <\/a>
The bottle in the middle was noteworthy <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"051-dscn4747\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"This <\/a>
This is the driveway for the vehicles to transport the champagne in bulk <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"053-dscn4749\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"054-dscn4750\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"055-dscn4751\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Very <\/a>
Very dramatic presentation of their magical city <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"057-dscn4753\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"A <\/a>
A museum of various implements towards making champagne <\/div> <\/div>
\"Throughout <\/a>
Throughout the ages <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"060-dscn4756\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"061-dscn4757\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"So <\/a>
So many bottles <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Illustration <\/a>
Illustration of the many destinations that get Mumms <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

Finally, at the end of the tour, we had our first glass of champagne, of an eventual 7 for the day.<\/p>\n

\"Winner!\" <\/a>
Winner! <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Larry <\/a>
Larry is the true winner <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Let <\/a>
Let the tastings begin! <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Love <\/a>
Love the illustrations <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"068-dscn4764\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"069-dscn4765\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"First <\/a>
First of many glasses that day <\/div> <\/div>
\"071-dscn4767\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"072-dscn4768\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"073-dscn4769\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Seriously <\/a>
Seriously – we ended up getting 7 glasses of champagne that day <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"075-dscn4771\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

Visiting the Reims Cathedral (Notre Dame de Reims)<\/h3>\n

Before we journeyed off into the French countryside for our next champagne tour and lunch, we first stopped in Reims to visit the magnificent Reims Cathedral<\/a>.\u00a0 This stunning building was the site where the French Kings would be coronated – for nearly a millennia.\u00a0 Isn’t it crazy how brief the United States’ existence really is in comparison to places in Europe and Asia?\u00a0 Anyway, it was wonderful to see this quite important French historical landmark and to think it was the site where Joan of Arc insisted the Dauphin be crowned King of France during the Hundred Years War way back in the 1400s.<\/p>\n

\"Part <\/a>
Part of the day was to visit the Reims Cathedral <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"This <\/a>
This is where the Kings of France would be coronated <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"And <\/a>
And where Joan of Arc ensured the Dauphin would be crowned <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"079-dscn4775\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"Very <\/a>
Very Gothic, and reminiscent of Notre Dame <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"081-dscn4777\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Up <\/a>
Up on the tippy top, a centaur <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Our <\/a>
Our tour guide explaining the history <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"084-dscn4781\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"085-dscn4782\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"086-dscn4783\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"087-dscn4784\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"088-dscn4785\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Big <\/a>
Big ass doors <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"090-dscn4787\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"091-dscn4788\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Inside <\/a>
Inside – the lighting almost makes it seem this is taller than Notre Dame <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"093-dscn4790\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"094-dscn4791\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"095-dscn4792\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"096-dscn4793\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Under <\/a>
Under Renovation <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"098-dscn4795\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"099-dscn4796\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"100-dscn4797\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"101-dscn4798\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"102-dscn4799\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"The <\/a>
The stained glass here is pretty too <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"104-dscn4802\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Big <\/a>
Big organ <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"106-dscn4804\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"107-dscn4805\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"108-dscn4806\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"109-dscn4807\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"110-dscn4808\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"111-dscn4809\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Marc <\/a>
Marc Chagall did these stained glass windows – apparently they’re controversial <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"113-dscn4811\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"114-dscn4812\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"I <\/a>
I like them. <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Joan <\/a>
Joan of Arc <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"117-dscn4818\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"118-dscn4819\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"119-dscn4820\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"120-dscn4821\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"121-dscn4822\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"122-dscn4823\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"123-dscn4824\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"124-dscn4825\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"125-dscn4826\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"126-dscn4828\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Because <\/a>
Because it’s Champagne country, these windows show how to make it <\/div> <\/div>
\"128-dscn4830\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"129-dscn4831\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"130-dscn4832\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"131-dscn4833\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"132-dscn4834\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"133-dscn4835\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

Off to the Champagne Countryside<\/h3>\n

\"reims-to-passy-grigny\"<\/a>After that tour of the Reims Cathedral, we then drove out into the countryside to one of the “crus”, a term for one of the 320 villages that is part of the champagne-making circuit.\u00a0 On the way from Reims to Passy-Grigny, our guide stopped at a scenic point near Herbemont to not only get a closer look at vineyards but to also take in the beautiful vista.\u00a0 While it was fucking hot that day as France was going an uncharacteristically warm September period, that warmth lent itself to gorgeous skies and sunshine.\u00a0 It was about an hour or so drive to get to the next champagne facility, which this time was Dom Caudron.\u00a0 We weren’t here to take a tour of the facilities though – it was to partake in a 3-course meal along with 3 more glasses of champagne paired with the food. Oh, it was on. During the tour, we got to meet and get to know our fellow patrons, with one British couple and two other American couples, all of whom were very fun and nice.\u00a0 There was a ridiculously good-looking guy in charge of the lunch though. Seriously stunning.<\/p>\n

\"Off <\/a>
Off into the French countryside of the Champagne region <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Stopped <\/a>
Stopped off at a handy vista of champagne grapes <\/div> <\/div>
\"Best <\/a>
Best not to eat these <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Stunningly <\/a>
Stunningly beautiful day – and also fucking hot <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"138-dscn4840\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"139-dscn4841\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"140-dscn4842\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"141-dscn4843\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"142-dscn4844\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"143-dscn4845\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"144-dscn4846\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"Ready <\/a>
Ready for the next glass <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"146-dscn4848\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Beautiful <\/a>
Beautiful day, truly <\/div> <\/div>
\"148-dscn4850\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"149-dscn4851\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"150-dscn4852\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"151-dscn4853\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"152-dscn4854\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"The <\/a>
The next winery was Dom Caudron <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Really <\/a>
Really just here for a three-course lunch paired with three glasses of different champagnes <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"155-dscn4857\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"There <\/a>
There were various champagne manufacturing devices on display <\/div> <\/div>
\"The <\/a>
The handsome man with his hands crossed was smoking hot and our host here <\/div> <\/div>
\"Delicious <\/a>
Delicious food ahead <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"It <\/a>
It was good champagne <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

Our Final Champagne Stop:\u00a0 Gardet<\/h3>\n

\"passy-grigny-to-chigny-les-roses\"<\/a>The next stop was another long, gorgeous drive through the champagne countryside to a cru called Chigny les Roses, where the final champagne cellar awaited.\u00a0 This last one was the Gardet Champagne factory, and it was a great way to cap off our visits.\u00a0 We did get to see again an underground city of champagne bottles under the trusty guidance of our gorgeous female host, but here we also saw the industrial side of things especially in the finishing phase.\u00a0 This plant is where we saw the grit-removal step for all the bottles as well as the immediate corking and sealing of the bottle.\u00a0 \u00a0Pretty cool actually!\u00a0 Then after that, we sat in the beautiful courtyard and drink 3 more glasses of champagne.\u00a0 Best day ever.<\/p>\n

\"The <\/a>
The last stop on our champagne tour <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Susan <\/a>
Susan would love this table <\/div> <\/div>
\"Gardet <\/a>
Gardet Champagne <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Went <\/a>
Went on a similar tour to the Mumms one <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"164-dscn4866\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"165-dscn4867\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Got <\/a>
Got to see a bit more of the modern realities of making champagne <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Not <\/a>
Not always charming cork vats <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Still <\/a>
Still TONS of bottles though <\/div> <\/div>
\"169-dscn4872\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"You <\/a>
You can see yet again the highways underground to transport the bottles <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Here's <\/a>
Here’s a bottling and stacking machine <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"172-dscn4875\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"173-dscn4876\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"174-dscn4877\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"The <\/a>
The wine has caps for now as the grit still has to be taken out <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"176-dscn4879\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Champagne <\/a>
Champagne makers do like their mysterious tunnels though <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Our <\/a>
Our host here was a very attractive French woman, who reminded me of Glenne Headly <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Bottles <\/a>
Bottles everywhere! <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"180-dscn4883\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"181-dscn4884\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"182-dscn4885\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"183-dscn4886\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"184-dscn4887\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"185-dscn4888\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"So <\/a>
So now, this is the way to get rid of the grit in a champagne bottle <\/div> <\/div>
\"187-dscn4890\" <\/a> <\/div>
\"In <\/a>
In there, the neck of the champagne bottle is frozen <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Once <\/a>
Once out of that machine, it’s put right side up – you can now see the frozen part <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"These <\/a>
These bottles now head over to the de-gritter <\/div> <\/div>
\"Which <\/a>
Which basically happens here – the metal cap is knocked off and the icy grit pops out naturally <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"And <\/a>
And almost immediately after, a cork is jammed into the bottle to keep the bubbles intact <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"193-dscn4897\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"194-dscn4899\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Corking <\/a>
Corking machine <\/div> <\/div>
\"196-dscn4901\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"And <\/a>
And then these bottles are now ready for shipping out <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"This <\/a>
This machine is pretty clever and gets the bottles all at once for each row <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Heading <\/a>
Heading to the backyard patio area for 3 more glasses <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"200-dscn4905\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Enjoying <\/a>
Enjoying the afternoon <\/div> <\/div>
\"Ready <\/a>
Ready for more glasses <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"203-dscn4908\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"204-dscn4909\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n